In the final leg of their tour of Lesotho, the intrepid group of adventurers – led by TRYGVE ROBERTS of Mountain Passes South Africa – travel from Thaba Tseka via Thaba Bosiu to Malealea, before concluding the tour with the Ramatselitso Pass (north of Matatiele).
As the saying goes, all good things must come to an end, and our amazing tour of the Mountain Kingdom was reaching its conclusion. There were still a few more thrills to be had, though, and the group were as fired up and ready for action as they were when we first set off from Matatiele in the Eastern Cape.
Thaba-Tseka to Thaba Bosiu
An easy day of tar road driving awaited as our convoy eased out of bustling Thaba Tseka, taking the A3 westwards via a series of big passes. First up, just 16km out of town, was the Mokhoabong Pass, which – at 41.5km – is a very long pass. It summits at 2 884m and offers a substantial altitude variance of 692m.
This was followed back-to-back by the Pass of Jackals – an easier, shorter pass packed with sharp bends and gorgeous scenery. It ends at the crossing of the Mantsonyane River.
The third in this string of passes was Cheche’s Pass. It’s another major pass of 19km, sporting a big altitude drop of 728m. In Lesotho it’s mostly quite confusing to ascertain where one pass starts and another ends, so it’s well worth the effort of entering the various waypoints to give yourself some clarity before leaving on your trip.
We stopped for a leg stretch on the banks of the Senqunyane River where a tranquil riverside spot provided an unobstructed and beautiful view of the area. We continued on the A3, which changes direction into the north, and took the turnoff to the Mohale Dam – one of the five dams of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project. We paused on the mountain ridge for photos and to take in the view of the dam and its lined earth wall before retracing our route to get back onto the A3.
More passes needed to be driven and they came thick and fast. The Blue Mountain Pass (Lekhalo La Thaba Putsoa) at 2 642m and the Lekhalo La Molimo Nthuse (God Help Me Pass) at 2 332m brought us closer to the lower plateau on the southwestern side of the country. But the passes were not over yet.
The last pass of the day was the Lekhala La Baroa Pass (Bushmen’s Pass) at 2 277m. It allowed a quick connect with the A2 and our overnight destination at the Thaba Bosiu Cultural Village to the east of Maseru. We arrived around lunchtime and settled into our thatched chalets. The afternoon was spent visiting the nearby Kome caves where cannibals ruled the roost in the early 1800’s. Certainly a sobering, yet fascinating, place to visit.
We made a quick stop for a group photo at Qiloane Mountain, which according to legend, was the inspiration for the design of the distinctive Mokorotlo straw hats worn by the locals during the summer months.
A guided cultural tour and talk by a well-informed and charming Basotho guide marked the end of the day, with just enough time for a shower before happy hour, dinner and a solid night’s sleep.
Thaba Bosiu to Malealea
The following morning, we stopped at Roma to refuel the vehicles before setting off for Malealea Lodge. The first part of our route was along the A5 on good tar, and then we left the traffic behind for the slow and scenic drive via the Botsoela Twin Falls and some technical driving to reach the sanctity of Malealea. It was once an important trading station for the district, but today serves as a lodge and is run by an affable young couple who bent over backwards to ensure that our group was comfortable.
Malealea to Semongkong Lodge via Gates of Paradise Pass
This easy pass is short (3.7km) and has a minor altitude variance of 127m, but it offered stunning views as we continued southwards over verdant plateaus blooming with wildflowers and grassy slopes. The main attraction for the day was a visit to the Maletsunyane Falls. No words can describe seeing this natural wonder in person and the scale and dimension of the surroundings are mind-boggling.
We also had a local Basotho lady over to give us a fascinating talk on Lesotho’s blanket culture and by the time we arrived at Semonkong Lodge it was pouring with rain. This meant that our evening festivities started a little earlier than normal. There were some issues with the food preparation, but that didn’t stop us from having a good time.
Semonkong to Matatiele
We got the convoy rolling by 08.30 the next morning and soon left the main road to drive a much smaller road down a steep pass to the Tsoelike River. From high up the pass, you have a view of two bridges; the first a standard concrete structure, but the second a suspension bridge constructed by German missionaries in 1931.
We drove the entire pass, then turned around to drive it in the opposite direction. The rain had started again, which meant photography was out of the question.
Our final point of interest was a stop at the Christ the King Mission, where the schoolchildren gave us a tumultuous welcome fit for celebrities. A short walk got us to the rim of the canyon formed by the Senqu River. The views are dramatic and spectacular, but you won’t find this spot easily without precise directions… or better yet, a local guide.
A few hours later we arrived at the border post and went through without any issues. The FJ Cruiser picked up a puncture right at the gate though, but after a quick wheel change, we descended down Ramaselitso’s Pass, which ends on the outskirts of Matatiele.
The final night was spent at Resthaven Guest House in Matatiele – a fitting end to a fantastic six-day tour.
