Sand and sea – Southern Namibia (part 2)

Over the first five days of their eagerly anticipated adventure to Southern Namibia, Henk Bogaards and his family had travelled all the way from Johannesburg to Aus. Along the way they had experienced the roaring dunes of Witsand, the remoteness of the Namakwa Eco Trail and the wild horses of Namibia. Their next stop was Luderitz.

Day 6 – Arriving in Luderitz

We made an early start to the day and packed up camp quickly. We hoped that by leaving early, we would avoid the wind and not get sandblasted again. Fortunately, there was no windstorm this time and we arrived safe and sound.

We had decided to stay in a self-catering unit in Luderitz as we’d been told that it could be cold and windy. However, it was a warm day with not much of a breeze, and it remained that way for the next two days. We stayed at Island Cottages, which is almost next to the campsite at Shark Island.

The kids wanted to get to a beach, so we set out to find one. Our first stop was at the beach where the Luderitz sign is located but it was a bit dirty, so we drove on. We wanted to get to Agate Beach and when we reached it, we were the only people there. After a few minutes, however, we were approached by a suspicious-looking character and decided to leave.

We headed back into Luderitz, explored the town, and took some photos of the buildings. We also bought some groceries, and I filled a gas bottle. In hindsight, I should have checked the gas bottle for the stove of the Bush Lapa as well.

In the evening, we treated ourselves to dinner at a restaurant at the harbor. The weather was so nice that we could eat outside. It was also great to have a hot shower and clean up after the last two days of wind.

Day 7 – The ghost town of Kolmanskoppe

Well-rested, we woke up early the next morning. The plan for the day was to visit the ghost town of Kolmanskoppe, a bucket list item for me. We opted for the early morning tour and after paying the entry fee, we waited in anticipation for it to start.

The history of this town is fascinating. Kolmanskoppe was established in the early 1900s during a diamond rush. The town quickly developed, boasting amenities unusual for the time, such as a casino and even a hospital with the first X-ray machine in the southern hemisphere. However, as diamond resources were depleted, the town declined, and by 1956 it was completely abandoned.

There’s an interesting story behind every building, from the bakery and ice factory to the hospital and the architect’s house. Now it’s hard to believe that people used to walk these streets. It’s also difficult to imagine that in those days, water had to be brought in from the Cape, and each person was allowed only 5 liters per day. For washing and other purposes, seawater had to be used.

After the tour, we had the opportunity to explore the town on our own. Walking between the houses and entering the sand-filled rooms leaves a lasting impression. Now empty, nothing remains of the once welcoming homes where families spent many happy hours together.

After Kolmanskoppe, we drove out to the Diaz Cross and explored the surrounding area. It’s always fascinating how explorers like Diaz would mark where they set foot on land. After visiting the cross, we drove to a beach. The black sea sand here was amazing. There was so much more to see, but unfortunately, we ran out of time.

Back at our unit, I quickly climbed the hill behind it to get some nice shots and timelapses of the sunset. I was also lucky enough to see a ship being loaded. This brought an end to our visit to Luderitz.

Day 8 – A donkey cart ride at Betta

The day started with some uncertainty about the information I had received the day before. While staying at Island Cottages, we met other overlanders. When I mentioned our plan to drive the D707, they looked very concerned, especially because we were travelling alone with a caravan. They claimed that people were stuck in thick sand on that road and that someone at Klein Aus Vista had also advised against it. One guy even said that he wouldn’t drive it with his double cab without towing.

I didn’t say much in response, but they looked at me as if I was being arrogant and told me to take enough food and water for a week in case we got stuck. That evening, I checked various forums and groups to see if what they’d said was true, but couldn’t find any information to support their concerns.

The next morning, we packed up and left Luderitz quite early and filled up with diesel before heading back to Aus. Just after Aus, we turned back onto gravel and I deflated the tyres to 1.5 bar all around, which worked best for me during the trip. Shortly after joining the gravel road, we turned left onto the D707 – one of Namibia’s most scenic routes, running along the edge of the Namib Desert and the Tiras Mountains. The road is known for its stunning landscapes that include vast plains, rocky outcrops, and occasional wildlife sightings. 

I was still a bit anxious about the road’s condition, but the scenery was absolutely amazing. We encountered some sandy patches, but if you manage to get stuck in those, you probably shouldn’t attempt any gravel driving at all. We enjoyed the scenery and even spotted some gemsbuck and springbuck. The wind picked up again, but we didn’t notice much of it inside the vehicle.

We arrived at Betta campsite around midday. Betta offers a shop and a filling station. The campsites are lovely, each with its own ablution facilities, a kitchen area, and a fire pit. Each site also has a viewing deck where you can enjoy the sunset. After parking the trailer at our campsite, we drove to Duwiseb Castle.

We reached the castle but couldn’t go inside as there was no one on site to open up for us. I had to be creative with a GoPro to capture some shots and we spent less than 30 minutes there before returning to Betta.

Back at Betta, we were pleasantly surprised when we were picked up for a donkey cart ride to see the sunset. This was an awesome experience and gave us a true feel of Namibia. The sunset was stunning, and we really enjoyed this unplanned experience. If you’re camping at Betta, you should definitely add this to your list. It was the perfect end to our day.

Day 9 – Exploring Sesriem Canyon

We woke up to a noise outside our caravan. Initially, we thought it might be a jackal getting into our food, but luckily, it was just someone lighting the fire for the donkey hot water boiler. We had set up a basic camp so we could leave early and made a quick stop at the shop to buy some biltong and snacks.

From there, we took the gravel road to our next destination. The drive was mostly uneventful, and we eventually stopped at the filling station in Sesriem where we filled up the fuel tank before we headed to the Sesriem campsite, managed by NWR. Although there are other campsites outside the park that I might consider in the future, I chose to book inside the park to have the option of an early morning drive to Deadvlei. The campsites at Sesriem were spacious. While they weren’t dirty, we felt that the ablution facilities could use some improvement; there wasn’t always hot water in the evenings, for example. The shop could also be better stocked. Considering the cost, they need to improve their services. SANPARKS generally offer better facilities.

One of the highlights of the campsite was seeing gemsbuck walking about lazily. You can get quite close to them, though not too close!

In the afternoon, my eldest daughter and I visited Sesriem Canyon. This is a remarkable place, and I’m surprised there isn’t more footage of it. I took many videos and photographs. It’s an amazing place, though you wouldn’t want to be there if water were rushing through it… which I assume doesn’t happen often. It’s definitely a must-see if you have the opportunity. However, the road to the canyon is very corrugated. People try to drive alongside the road rather than on it, but it doesn’t make much difference.

That evening, we relaxed around the fire and went to bed early, as we planned to leave for Deadvlei early the next morning.

Day 10 – Sossusvlei and Deadvlei

This was one of those days that I have been waiting for for many years – a day high on my bucket list. We woke up very early dark, eager to visit Deadvlei. We could hear other campers waking up as well, and there was already a queue of cars outside the gate, waiting to enter the park. Fortunately, we were staying inside the park, and I had already paid the fees to go to Deadvlei.

We left at around 06:00 and because it was still dark, , we couldn’t see much of the surrounding dunes, just the lights of the vehicles ahead of us. As we approached the parking area for 4×2 vehicles, the new day was just starting to dawn and we hoped to be in time for the sunrise.

We deflated the tyres of the Fortuner to 1.5 bar and set off on the last sandy stretch of road to our destination. We reached the last parking area and set off on the walk of about 1km or so to Deadvlei. On the way, the sun rose and although we hadn’t arrived at Deadvlei itself on time, the experience was still magical. As we crossed the last dune a breathtaking wonderland opened up before us. It was everything I had hoped for and more. Seeing the vlei and the ancient, dead trees, after viewing so many photos and videos of it, was a dream come true.

Deadvlei is a white clay pan located near Sossusvlei in the Namib-Naukluft Park of Namibia. It is famous for its stark contrast of black, dead camel thorn trees against the white clay ground and the vibrant red dunes surrounding it. The trees, believed to be over 900 years old, are remnants of an ancient forest that once thrived when the Tsauchab River flooded. Over time, the river changed course, and the area became too dry for the trees to decompose. The unique landscape of Deadvlei creates a surreal and photogenic scene, making it a popular destination for photographers and nature enthusiasts.

I hadn’t planned on climbing a dune, but my daughter had other ideas. Her motivation helped me reach the top and after spending some time taking in the natural beauty, we headed back to camp. On the way we also stopped at Dune 45 for some photos. Having already climbed one dune, I wasn’t keen on climbing another, so we stayed at the bottom.

Later in the afternoon, we drove to Dune Elim. Even though it’s close to camp, it offers some amazing views. There was even a lone gemsbuck, and I spent at least 15 minutes taking photos of him. He must be accustomed to people, as he continued with his activities as if we weren’t there. These dunes are ideal for capturing the sunset, making it a perfect end to a very special day.

*In part 3 Henk and company is travel companions visit the Fish River Canyon before heading back home. Visit his Youtube channel for more: https://www.youtube.com/c/HenkBogaards4WheelingSA

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