On the final leg of their adventure through Southern Namibia, Henk Bogaards and his family go in search of the best apple pie and take in some more breathtaking sights before reluctantly heading back home.
Day 11 – Onward to Mount D’Urban
Today was another travel day for us. We packed up early and decided to take a bit of a detour to Solitaire to sample the famous apple tart that the town has become known for. The first bit of the road from Sesriem to Solitaire is paved, but then the route deteriorates into very bad corrugations.
It was a bumpy ride, but we reached Solitaire without incident by mid-morning. It was holiday season and the town was busy, but we patiently stood in a line to order our pieces of pie heaven. It was intriguing to see the seemingly never-ending supply of apple pies appearing from the oven. It was like a well-oiled production line and made the whole experience feel slightly commercialised.
The wait was well worth it and our taste buds being treated to a delicious culinary delight. Interestingly enough, there are a few places that claim to have the best apple pie in Namibia and in the end, I suppose it boils down to personal taste really. I decided to also sample the apple pie at the Helmeringshausen hotel before making that call.
Leaving Solitaire, we turned south onto a great gravel road towards Mount D’Urban campsite, our destination for the day. It’s a lovely campsite where you have your own ablutions and a stunning view of the mountain. There’s also a 4×4 route to a lookout point that offers amazing views of the area. Looking back, it would have been great to spend two nights there, but we were pressed for time and had to move on.
Day 12 – Burgers at Canon Roadhouse and driving to Hobas Campsite
We were super excited about today. We had been looking forward to reaching the Fish River Canyon and enjoying a burger at the famous Canyon Roadhouse. We had heard a lot about the roadhouse, especially its unique decorations, and couldn’t wait to see it for ourselves.
We packed up early and made a quick stop at a shop in Mount D’Urban where we bought the most delicious home-made jams and local products before popping in at Helmeringshausen to try out their apple tart. Honestly, we decided that it’s way better than that of Solitaire, but to each his own…
I had to fill up with diesel and did so at Behanie, only to find out that they could only give us 20 litres. At least I had another spare 20 litres stowed in the caravan, but there was the risk that the diesel could be dirty, being the last left in the tank. Luckily, I had some peace of mind since I had and addition UDF diesel filter fitted after the OEM filter.
The remainder of the road was mostly uneventful, and soon we arrived at Canyon Roadhouse, known for its quirky décor of vintage cars and memorabilia, giving it a nostalgic feel. We had some delicious burgers (what else would you order at a roadhouse?) and a refreshing beer shandy. The bathrooms also had some unique decorations that added to the charm of the place.
After filling up with diesel, we left for the Hobas Campsite at the Fish River Canyon. Staying at Hobas allows for early entrance to the park and viewpoints, which is perfect for catching the sunrise over the canyon. Another option is to stay at Canyon Roadhouse, which is conveniently located near the canyon.
After checking in and paying the park fees, we made the unpleasant discovery that we had a flat tyre on the caravan. Fortunately, I was able to inflate it and drive to our campsite, where I had to change it with the spare. After all the gravel road driving, this was not a clean exercise, but it was necessary.
With the wheel replaced, we headed to the nearest viewpoint for our first glimpse of the Fish River Canyon. The sight was truly remarkable and everything we had hoped for. The canyon is the second largest in the world, after the Grand Canyon in the USA. It stretches over 160km in length, up to 27km in width, and reaches depths of up to 550m. The sheer scale and beauty of the canyon are awe-inspiring, and it must be particularly fascinating to see when the river is flowing.
After a long day on the road, we went to bed early that evening, exhausted but thrilled by the day’s experiences.
Day 13 – Fish River Canyon and Ai-Ais Hot Springs
We woke up early to find some zebras grazing close to our camp. There is a small riverbed nearby and our striped visitors were taking full advantage of the early morning hours to feed. They stayed long enough for us to capture a few photos, which was a real treat.
After enjoying some coffee and rusks, we headed out to the viewpoints. Once again, we were amazed by the stunning views over the Fish River Canyon. The vastness and beauty of the canyon is truly breathtaking. On the way, we were surprised to encounter a grader working on the road, which added a bit of excitement to our day.
At the main viewpoint, there is plenty of information available on the canyon’s history, geology, and the surrounding area. It’s a geological marvel that attracts visitors from all over the world and after spending some time there to take it all in, we drove towards Ai-Ais, particularly excited to see and swim in the hot springs.
The road down to Ai-Ais offers stunning scenery, making the journey even more enjoyable. However, upon arrival, we were somewhat disappointed. The facilities seemed to be lacking proper maintenance; the grass was overgrown, and the shop had very limited stock. Despite this, one of the indoor pools was open, and we enjoyed a relaxing hour soaking in the warm, mineral-rich waters.
In the late afternoon, I headed back to the viewpoint to take some videos for my YouTube channel. The grader was still working on the road, and it was only when I returned to camp that my daughter pointed out one of our tyres was losing air. Upon closer inspection, I found a piece of steel embedded in the rubberf, likely from the grader’s blade. It took some time to change the tyre, especially because the spare wheel lock was stuck – a good reminder to check and possibly remove these locks before going on a trip.
This was our last evening camping on this trip, and we spent it relaxing around the fire, enjoying one final braai in Namibia. Despite the day’s challenges, it was a memorable experience, filled with beautiful landscapes and unique encounters.
Day 14 – Heading home and a pleasant surprise in Upington
We woke up feeling sad and empty, knowing this would be our last day in Namibia. I was also a bit concerned because we now had two flat tyres. My plan was to get them repaired as soon as possible, but at a place that would do a proper repair rather than a makeshift one.
I considered various road options and decided that heading towards Ariamsvlei would be best, as it mostly involved tar roads. In Karasburg, it was suggested that I go to the butcher to fix the tyree, which didn’t seem reliable, so I decided to wait until we reached Upington for the repair.
At the border post, everything went smoothly and quickly on the Namibian side. However, on the South African side, the process took longer. Everyone, including truck drivers, had to stand in the same queue for a stamp from the police (something we didn’t encounter at Noordoewer). Once through, a policeman asked me to open every single door of the caravan, just doing his job, I suppose…
After that, we headed towards Upington. The first order of business was to find a tyre repair shop. We stopped at the local Fit-It and they had the two tyres repaired in just 15 minutes! We decided to treat ourselves to a brandy tasting and dinner at the Orange River Cellars Restaurant, which was a great experience. We highly recommend stopping there if you have the opportunity.
That evening, we stayed at Bezallel, just outside Upington. There was plenty of firewood, allowing us to make a nice big fire to keep warm (a change after mostly wearing shorts and T-shirts for most of the trip). It was nice not having to set up camp and just being able to go to bed early after a long day on the road.
Day 15 – Back home
It was the last day of our trip, and nobody seemed particularly keen to be heading back home. We woke up early to take some photographs of the area and I used the drone to take some arial shots.
After a quick stop in Upington it was time to take the long road back home. By all accounts it was a great trip and one that has left us with memories that will be with us forever. Truly inspired by the experience, we can’t wait to start planning the next adventure.
