Lesotho, also known as the “Mountain Kingdom” or the “Switzerland of Africa,” is a land of contrasts and remarkable landscapes. Despite its relatively small size, covering only 30 300 square kilometres, Grahame McLeod discovered that it holds some of Africa’s most dramatic vistas. From towering mountain peaks to deep river gorges, it’s a country that punches well above its weight.
High altitudes and hidden wonders
Lesotho is home to the highest point in Southern Africa south of Mount Kilimanjaro – Thabana Ntlenyana, which reaches 3 482m. It also boasts Maletsunyane Falls, the tallest waterfall in southern Africa, standing at a majestic 192m – almost twice the height of Victoria Falls. Notably, Lesotho is the only country in the world that lies entirely above 1 500m in altitude, adding to its mystique.
This stunning landscape enticed Tom Noach, an American Peace Corps Volunteer, and me to explore Lesotho’s wonders in the winter of 1981. At the time, we were teaching at a secondary school in Botswana, a country defined by its dry, flat terrain. The thought of Lesotho’s cool mountain air was exactly what we needed.
The Semonkong experience
Our journey began at the modest Leabua Jonathan Airport, just outside Maseru, the capital. After checking in, we were weighed along with our luggage – a new experience for me. The reason became apparent as we stepped outside to board our aircraft: a tiny twin-engined, six-seater Cessna turboprop. The flight to Semonkong was a quick, 20-minute trip that could not have been more scenic.
Flying over the lowlands of Lesotho, we passed over villages nestled in small fields, before the terrain gave way to the dramatic cliffs and deep river gorges of the mountains. Our flight ended at Semonkong, a small village perched on the Maletsunyane River at an altitude of 2 200m. The village was founded in the 1880s as a refuge for the Basotho people displaced by the Basotho Gun War with the British Cape Colony.
Upon landing, we were struck by the beauty of the Maletsunyane Falls, where the river’s waters plummeted into a green pool below. While the falls were only a trickle due to the dry season, during the rainy months, they become a powerful spectacle, sending clouds of spray into the air. It’s no wonder Semonkong means “place of smoke,” a reference to the mist created by the waterfall. Local legend suggests that the sound of the falls is the lament of souls lost to its waters.
A village lost in time
Semonkong felt like another world. The hustle and bustle of Maseru, with its traffic and modern buildings, seemed a distant memory. Here, silence reigned, punctuated only by the braying of donkeys and the laughter of schoolchildren. Life moved at a slower pace, and it was clear that this place existed in a time warp.
The village centre was the general dealer store, where the locals gathered to chat and pass the time. Despite our arrival, which must have been the highlight of the week, the villagers didn’t seem fazed – there were no grand welcomes, only the occasional curious glance. The store, a small, dimly lit building, sold only the basics: maize meal, flour, tinned pilchards, and cooking oil – no fresh produce or treats here.
Outside, a makeshift filling station stood, consisting of nothing more than a metal drum from which fuel was siphoned. The simplicity of life in Semonkong was humbling, and it was a refreshing change from the modern world we had left behind.
Life in the mountains
Semonkong’s surroundings were dotted with traditional stone huts, their thatched roofs blending harmoniously with the landscape. The inhabitants’ homes were built using local materials, making them warm in winter and cool in summer. It was a beautiful, sustainable way of living that contrasted sharply with the concrete buildings we were used to.
As we continued our journey through the mountain villages, we observed locals working the land – women and children threshing sorghum and winnowing grain by hand. In one village, an elderly man greeted us outside his small stone hut, where he lived with his prized goats, protected by dogs against both wild animals and thieves.
The harsh beauty
We ventured further into the mountains, camping by the Senqunyane River. The views were spectacular, and the air was crisp and clean. But winter in Lesotho was harsher than we had anticipated. The temperature dropped well below freezing, and we woke to find our water frozen solid. The snow-covered landscape was a far cry from the warm, dry conditions we had expected, and our lack of proper gear became painfully evident.
We had packed light, underestimating the cold. My thin clothes and lack of thermal layers made the conditions even more uncomfortable. However, by mid-morning, the clouds began to clear, and we pressed on towards Tumahole, the highest peak in the region. The trek through deep snow was exhausting, and our stiff legs made each step feel like a struggle.
A lesson in survival
The weather remained unpredictable, and the conditions continued to challenge us. Our boots froze overnight, and even simple tasks like pitching the tent became increasingly difficult. But despite the discomfort, the beauty of the mountain landscapes kept us going. The crisp, clear air and the spectacular mountain views were worth every hardship.
We eventually made our way to Thaba Tseka, where the villages gradually became more frequent, and the peaceful isolation of the mountains began to fade. The sight of children begging for sweets reminded us that we were no longer in the wilderness, but in a country that was slowly becoming more connected to the outside world.
The end of the journey
Our journey ended with a bus ride back to Maseru, where the weather worsened once more. But the memories of the rugged beauty and the challenges of the highlands of Lesotho would stay with us forever. This land of contrasts, with its freezing winters and rugged landscapes, had shown us Africa in a way few others had experienced it.
Lesotho, in all its breathtaking isolation, is a place of surprising beauty and resilience, a reminder that even in the harshest conditions, life finds a way to thrive.
