The time had finally come. Henry Jonker and his good old friend, Jacques Groenewald, set off on a 12-day journey with friends from Live The Journey, travelling from Henties Bay, Namibia, to Kasane, Botswana.
Our adventure officially began about 50km north of Swakopmund at the well-known fishing town of Henties Bay, where our convoy of 11 vehicles assembled. Hands were shaken, greetings exchanged, and VHF radios were fitted to vehicles that didn’t yet have them. Jacques gathered everyone together, laid out the day’s plan, and then our convoy was on the move.
From Henties Bay, we continued north, then turned right at Cape Cross towards the Messum Crater. We enjoyed a coffee stop on one of the koppies before pressing on through the crater until we reached the D2342.
Heavy rains over the preceding few weeks meant we couldn’t follow our planned route through the Ugab River, so we turned right onto the D2342, skirting around the famous Brandberg until we reached our first overnight stop – Brandberg White Lady Lodge.
That evening, Jacques and I were on dinner duty. While the rest of the group set up camp, we got the fire going and cracked open a cold beer. As the sun dipped behind the western horizon, the local community treated us to traditional songs around the fire.
Twilight at Twyfelfontein
The next morning, after breakfast, our convoy was on the move again. With one of our shortest driving days ahead, we made the most of it by stopping at the Burnt Mountain and the Organ Pipes, both close to Twyfelfontein. Because of the heat, we decided to visit Twyfelfontein the next morning instead. For now, we continued on to Mowani Mountain Camp, where we set up camp and cooled off in the swimming pool.
A member of our group celebrated a birthday with a glass of bubbly before the fireside chat continued. The evening’s “get-to-know-you” session had everyone laughing, and it was fascinating to hear the life stories of our fellow travellers. There we were – 21 people from all over the world – gathered around a fire, sharing travel tales.
History and rain on the road
We were up early the next morning for our visit to Twyfelfontein – an open-air gallery with the largest single concentration of rock engravings in Southern Africa. With over 2 000 engravings and some rock paintings, the site includes depictions of more than 200 giraffes, 100 rhinos, ostriches, antelope, elephants and zebras.
From here, we travelled westward through Namibia, the landscape lush and picture-perfect. Storm clouds built over Otjiwarongo, where we refuelled before the rain caught us en route to the Waterberg.
It had been a long day behind the wheel, so everyone was relieved when we rolled into our third destination – Hamakari Guest Farm. After dinner with our hosts, we set up camp for the night.
Into the pans
Leaving Hamakari, we followed the C31 and B14 via Otjinene, then headed north parallel to the Namibia/Botswana border. For the next two days, we stayed at Tsumkwe Country Lodge.
A highlight was our visit to the Nyae Nyae Pans, which were partially under water. Some obstacles had us holding our breath – and, as fate would have it, laughing at a friend’s minor mishap along the way.
The day ended with a visit to the enormous Dorsland Trekker Baobab before we sat down to a final, hearty dinner with our hosts.
Bush camping bliss
From Tsumkwe, it was about 55km to the Dobe Border Post into Botswana, where we completed the paperwork and continued north along the border line. Excitement was high – tonight we’d be camping in the middle of nowhere.
Frequent stops were needed to move fallen or damaged border fencing caused by wildlife. Eventually, we reached the old veterinary fence and turned east. The track often vanished completely and soon saws and loppers were needed to clear the way.
That night, we camped on a grass-covered pan in north-western Botswana. Jacques cooked his famous pasta pot – a recipe he first made for us on a 2023 hunting trip near Aberdeen – always a winner.
Riverside luxury
Morning brought one of the most beautiful sunrises of the trip. Coffee in hand, some broke camp while others soaked up the moment.
Following a two-track past small settlements (with the “road” disappearing at times), we eventually found the A35 and a short drive led us to Drotsky’s Cabins on the banks of the Okavango River. This would be home for the next two nights.
With the campsite a distance from the lodge restaurant, we travelled to and from dinner by boat along the river – dining like kings.
Cruising the Okavango
From Drotsky’s, we followed the A35 to the impressive Mohembo Bridge over the Okavango, linking east and west bank communities. After an easy border crossing back into Namibia, we arrived at Mahangu Lodge, where that night’s treat was a long-table dinner on the riverbank.
The next morning’s breakfast cruise up the Okavango offered abundant wildlife sightings – a magical combination.
The final stretch
After restocking in Divundu, we crossed the Okavango into Bwabwata National Park and reached Nyime Safari Lodge, located within the old 32 Battalion Buffalo base. A chicken and vegetable pot was on the menu, but a rain shower had us huddled under the awnings for a while.
Continuing east on the Trans-Caprivi Highway the next day, we detoured halfway through the strip (a story for another campfire). Crossing the Kwando River, we turned towards Livingstone’s Camp in the Wuparo Conservancy, just 4km from Mamili (Nkasa Lupala) National Park. Jacques and I handled dinner again – steak and chips, fit for royalty.
All good things must end
From Livingstone, we travelled via Katima Mulilo to the Ngoma Border Post, crossing into Botswana and skirting through Chobe National Park. We had to cut the drive short to make our pre-booked sunset cruise – well worth it for the golden skies and incredible wildlife along the Chobe River.
The tour ended at Chobe Safari Lodge with one last braai and fireside gathering.
How do you summarise a journey like this in words and pictures? You can’t – it’s something you simply have to experience. To our fellow travellers – thank you for every moment. And to my good friend Jacques – it was a privilege. Any time, anywhere, just say the word and I’ll be there.
*Follow Henry Jonker’s travel blog on www.jonkeradventures.com or find him on social media: @jonkeradventures
