Embarking on a backpacking adventure across Europe is a dream for many. Then when you decide to save up and do just that, turning a dream into reality and “world schooling” the kids, you discover a whole new level of meticulous planning, cultural exploration, and unexpected wonders. Chasing Gravel’s NOLENE KOTZE gives great advice on navigating Europe with kids… in a campervan!
Over the course of 35 days, we traversed 13 borders, covering an impressive 27 523km, with just under 6 175km spent cruising in our trusty campervan. Our journey was not about the distance, but about the memories made, lessons learnt, and the unique challenges faced when travelling with children in foreign first-world countries.
We uncovered many hidden costs and having to pay for things that we take for granted in Africa. We swam in the Mediterranean, Adriatic, North, and Arabian Seas, and visited many iconic landmarks. These included the Colosseum, the Eiffel Tower, the Black Forest’s biggest cuckoo clock, living museums and so much more.
Not only did we visit Ripley’s Believe it or Not! in Amsterdam (which was truly mind-blowing), but we encountered numerous world records – from the smallest whisky bar in the world to the tallest building on earth. We marvelled at the wonders of Dubai and experienced the thrill of Disneyland.
Looking back now, it’s hard to believe that we saw so much and had so many incredible experiences. And while every unplanned challenge was undoubtedly worth the effort, this trip was certainly not as easy as it sounds!
Good to know
Armed with maps, guidebooks, and language translation apps, we adeptly crossed linguistic and cultural barriers.
Relying on the Park4night app for strategic halts across Europe, we found a spot to park the campervan every night. Connectivity posed challenges with local SIM cards, so we switched to our iPhone’s build-in eSIM that we used in Botswana as well. It worked like a charm but is more expensive than a local sim.
Because you’re driving in places you do not know, it is super important to have Google Maps on hand the whole time. I would suggest that you download your maps for all the areas you will be driving in as an offline map.
Planes, trains, and automobiles
We explored Europe via planes, trains, buses, trams, boats, ferries, and – of course – a campervan. From low emission zones to unexpected toll fees, every mode of transportation brought its own set of surprises.
We’re used to campsites where, most of the time, everything is included in the rate. In Europe we had to, at some spots, pay extra for Wi-Fi, or for a shower per person. Also, the stands are not as big as the ones in Africa. Public bathrooms cost around €1.5 per person and if you’re four people like we were… well, you do the math!
Low emmission zones are quite crucial. Make sure you know where they are, since the fines are huge! We had no idea about low emission zones, and on more than one occasion the GPS took us into areas where our campervan was not allowed. Again, part of the adventure – but you do get super nervous when you realise what a low emission zone is and that there’s a fine if you’re caught ‘trespassing’! Then you start to navigate around it. Strangely, in Paris they have a campervan spot inside the low emission zone… Go figure!
Toll roads have hefty fees. We paid almost €17 in toll fees between Nice and Marseilles. Oh, and besides the steep entrance fee for Disney Paris, no one mentioned the parking fee of €30 for the day. We also had our most expensive meal in Paris at a roadside cafe…
We loved the Autobahn in Germany! It felt great to drive at a speed of 120km/h compared to the 30-50km/h on the roads running parallel to the toll roads.
Cherishing open spaces
After weeks of exploration, we were missing the open spaces of Africa, the firewood and – of course – braaiing! This prompted us to become the first campervanners ever to rent a braai with our vehicle. We were met with not-so-friendly and disapproving looks in the campsites we visited because of this – but hey: we’re African and for us, this will always be part of the experience.
Our 35-day journey across Europe was a testament to the rewards of careful planning, adaptability, and a sense of adventure. From cultural encounters to world records, we created memories that will last a lifetime, proving that with the right mindset, exploring Europe with kids can be an enriching and unforgettable experience.
Highlights of the trip
Italy
If history and culture are your thing, Italy is an absolute must. We visited the Colosseum in Rome, the Siena Cathedral, the Fontebranda in Santa Caterina, the Cathedral in Florence and – of course – the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
When in Italy you simply have to sample the local cuisine. We had the best pizza I have ever tasted at Mamma Napoli in Florence, as well as simply heavenly gelato at the legendary Vivoli. We ate the largest pretzels I’ve ever seen and visited the Forst Beer Brewery before we headed north towards Venice.
We spent two days in Venice and had an absolutely a blast! We visited many of the well-known landmarks, including the Rialto Bridge. Buying a day pass for Venice is slightly pricey, but you can hop on and off buses, trams and ferries as and where you please.
France
We were in Marseilles for the Rugby World Cup game between the Springboks and Scotland – what an experience! From there we drove all the way up to Paris, camping along the way and exploring the amazing smaller towns and villages.
In Paris we visited the Palace of Versailles and the Eiffel Tower, where we wrote our names on a lock and added it to the collection on the fence facing the tower. The Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame and Disneyland were also on the itinerary before we moved on to Belgium.
Belgium
Brugge was, without a doubt, one of our favourite spots in Europe. It has the most amazing architecture and is spotlessly clean. Of course, we simply had to pop in at Choco-Story, the local chocolate museum… what a treat (pun intended!).
The museum consists of three parts and tells the story of the origin and evolution of chocolate. In addition to history, the museum also shows how chocolate is made, with special attention to the varied raw materials and production process of the past and present. My favourite part was the demonstration centre, where visitors get to taste the chocolate products made on site.
Netherlands
There is so much to see in the home of windmills and tulips! Not only did we witness an entire bridge lift to allow boats to pass through, but we also drove through a tunnel that runs under the sea. We visited Ripley’s Belief It or Not! where we marvelled at the hundreds of rare and unusual artifacts and hands-on displays.
The Icebar, where everything – from the walls to the serving glasses – is made of ice, was also most interesting, as was the International Clog Museum. It contains more than 3 000 pairs of clogs and other footwear with a wooden sole from more than 45 countries, making it the largest and most extensive collection in the world.
Germany
The landscape of the Rhine Valley is simply gorgeous, and we loved exploring the area. We stopped at Mosselblick, Nierdernburg and Hinderburgbruke, where we took a ferry ride on the Rhine River. There are many castles along the way, and we were bowled over by the beauty of it all.
Next, we moved in the direction of the Black Forest, stopping at the Vogtsbauernhof Living Museum. We also visited the Triberg Waterfall and the biggest cuckoo clock in the world – its wheel diameter is 2.6m, the clock mechanism weights six tonnes and the pendulum is 8m long!
Our next stop was in Fussen to visit the Schloss Neuschwanstein Castle. It has been on my bucket list for a very long time, and I was very disappointed to learn that you are not allowed to take photographs inside.
Croatia
In Split we stayed at the best camper site in the whole of Europe. It is a campervan resort with a private beach, two pools, a jacuzzi, a spa and much more. It was stunning!
To get from there to Dubrovnik, we had to cross 2.4km long Pelješki Most Bridge. The bridge spans the sea channel between Komarna on the northern mainland and the peninsula of Pelješac, thereby passing entirely through Croatian territory and avoiding any border crossings with Bosnia and Herzegovina at Neum. It truly is a sight to behold!
Dubai
Even if you’re not there for the shopping, there’s a lot going on in Dubai. Burj Khalifa is an obvious must-see, as is the Dubai Fountain. This is one of the world’s largest choreographed fountain displays, where powerful jet streams soar as high as 150m in the air and sway in time to musical numbers. Also on our list were the Dubai Frame, the Museum of the Future, Jumeirah Beach and the famous ferris wheel.
At the Atlantis Aquaventure Waterpark all of us did the Leap of Faith waterslide, dropping nine storeys at 60km/h and passing through a tunnel submerged in a shark-filled lagoon. This broke the ice, and the kids ended up doing just about every single ride in the park!
Travel tips
Travelling from Africa to Europe involves various considerations to ensure a smooth and enjoyable trip. Here are some important things to know:
• Visa and entry requirements: Many African passport holders require a visa to enter European countries. Check the specific visa requirements of the country you intend to visit and apply for a visa well in advance. Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond your intended departure date. When applying, make sure that your travel insurance – especially in terms of medical benefits – meets the requirements of the countries you will be visiting. Have copies of important documents, both digital and printed, on hand. You never know when you might need them!
• Flights: Research and book your flights well in advance (the earlier you book, the cheaper they generally are). Major African cities are well-connected to European cities via various airlines. Direct flights might be available, but you might also need to consider layovers or connecting flights. Be aware of baggage allowances and customs regulations.
• Currency and money: European countries use the Euro (€) as their currency. It’s a good idea to have some Euros with you when you arrive, as well as a credit or debit card for transactions. Inform your bank about your travel dates to avoid any issues with card usage abroad.
• Language and communication: English is widely spoken in many European countries, especially in tourist areas. However, learning a few basic phrases in the local language can be helpful and will be appreciated.
• Weather and clothing: Europe’s weather can vary greatly from country to country and even within regions. Pack clothing suitable for the climate of your destination during the time of your visit.
• Safety and security: Europe is generally safe for travellers, but it’s still important to stay vigilant and take basic safety precautions. Be cautious of your belongings, avoid poorly lit or unfamiliar areas at night, and follow local advice about safety concerns.
• Local transportation: European cities usually have well-developed public transportation systems. Familiarise yourself with local options such as buses, trains, trams, and metros. You might also consider using ride-sharing apps or taxis.
• Cultural attractions and activities: Research and plan ahead for the cultural attractions, landmarks, and activities you want to experience. Europe offers a wide range of historical sites, museums, culinary experiences, and entertainment options.• Time zone differences: Europe spans multiple time zones, so be aware of the time difference between your departure and arrival cities to minimise jet lag and adjust your schedule accordingly.
