It’s not often that adventure begins before dawn, but on this particular Thursday, at precisely 03:30, the wheels of our long-awaited Kruger trip were already turning – figuratively, at least. By late afternoon, the vehicle that would be our trusted companion on this journey had arrived: the Toyota Fortuner GR-Sport. With a fresh set of specs boasting 165kW and 550Nm of torque, the Fortuner wasn’t just transport – it was a presence. Muscular yet elegant, powerful but polished. As I walked around it for the first time, taking in its refined stance and subtle performance enhancements, I couldn’t help but feel a flutter of excitement.
We were meant to be towing a camping trailer for a relaxed setup at Pretoriuskop, one of the oldest rest camps in Kruger National Park. But adventure, as it always does, threw in a curveball. The GR-Sport, despite all its muscle, arrived without a towbar. A crucial detail – overlooked.
Arrival day: packing problems and unexpected solutions
Plans changed. Quickly. The trailer would stay behind. We now needed to fit everything – tent, bedding, mattresses, fridge, battery box, food, chairs – into the Fortuner itself. At first, I’ll admit, I was sceptical. A double cab would have been a no-brainer, but this? I wasn’t convinced.
Yet with the seats folded down, we packed. And packed. And packed. Surprisingly, the Fortuner swallowed it all. Like a seasoned traveller, it adapted to the load with dignity. Though, by the end, visibility out the rear window was all but gone. We didn’t mind. Our road trip spirit was intact.
We set off early the next morning at 03:30 on the dot. Destination: Numbi Gate, a short 8km from Pretoriuskop, where we’d be spending the next three nights. The Fortuner handled the drive like a dream. With an average fuel consumption of 10.5 litres/100km while cruising at 125km/h, it was commendable – especially considering the weight it was hauling.
Surprisingly, despite the Easter weekend rush, Pretoriuskop had ample space. We arrived at Numbi Gate just after 08:00, breezed through check-in, and made our way into camp. The system there is first-come, first-served – technically, pitching is only permitted from 14:00 onwards. But many campers vacate early, and by the time we arrived, choice spots were already opening up.
We found a gorgeous site nestled beside the perimeter fence – an idyllic spot to call home for the next few days.
Campfire companions and close calls
Just as we began setting up, we noticed a commotion on a nearby dirt road. Barely finished with our coffee, we jumped back into the Fortuner for a spontaneous drive. A mere 1.5km outside of camp, we stumbled upon a mating pair of lions. It’s rare enough to see lions… rarer still to witness the intimacy of mating rituals. They had, we learned later, been at it for over a day already. These unions typically last 2–3 days, with near-constant activity and no feeding. A raw display of nature’s persistence.
We looped around the Pretoriuskop region afterwards and were treated to a medley of sightings – elephants, zebras, and the familiar hush of the bushveld under a golden sunset.
That evening, we fired up the braai. Rump steaks sizzled under the stars while the low roar of a lion echoed in the distance. Just a kilometre away, our new feline neighbours kept up their courtship. It’s a sound that vibrates through your chest more than your ears – a deep, primeval rumble.
The night air was mild, typical of April in Kruger. At around 21:00 we turned in. Tucked inside our tent, we drifted to sleep, accompanied by the soundtrack of the African wild.
Day 1: dawn patrols and wild dogs on the hunt
The next morning, we were up by 05:00. In Kruger, if you want to see action, you rise with the bush. First at the gate means first at the sightings, and with the lions still close, we had high hopes.
We arrived at the gate around 05:20, just in time to make a quick coffee and enjoy some rusks before it opened at 06:00. The Fortuner’s tailgate transformed into a makeshift kitchen counter, and our compact gas stove did the job perfectly.
As we turned onto the road where we’d seen the lions the day before, disappointment set in. They weren’t there. But just 500m further, we heard the unmistakable roar. And then, there he was: the male lion, still vocalising, stepped onto the road just 200m ahead. We approached slowly, letting the moment wash over us.
Our route for the day was ambitious: from Albasini Road to Skukuza, then Lower Sabie, onto Renosterkoppies Dam, and eventually to Afsaal for a late lunch before circling back to camp – a good 90–100km round trip. In the Kruger, that’s a full day.
We kept our pace slow, especially on gravel, crawling along at 30km/h. It wasn’t long before fortune smiled upon us again. On Albasini Road, a blur of motion became three wild dogs sprinting toward us. We quickly turned the vehicle, letting them rush past in their pursuit. A fleeting but electrifying encounter.
Later, we encountered hundreds of banded mongoose scurrying across the road like something out of a nature documentary. The sheer volume was astonishing.
The Fortuner cruised effortlessly. With cruise control set to 32km/h, the GPS showed a true speed of around 26km/h – ideal for game viewing. Smooth suspension and good visibility made it a joy to pilot through the winding bushveld tracks.
At Skukuza, we stopped briefly. I have to admit, Skukuza’s lost a bit of its charm. It feels more commercial these days, complete with a new butchery charging R260/kg for rump steak – clearly targeting international tourists. But I was on a mission: to find a buffalo pie.
Years ago, these pies – served with chips and gravy – were a rite of passage. And finally, sitting beside the Sabi River, I bit into one. It didn’t disappoint.
From Skukuza, we rolled onwards. At Nkulu Picnic Site, my wife, ever the sharp-eyed spotter, picked out a herd of buffalo cooling off in the river below.
A quick cold drink later, we continued to Sunset Dam, just outside Lower Sabie. As expected, crocodiles and hippos lounged in the shallows, and waterbirds darted overhead. The landscape was a lush, saturated green – a by-product of recent heavy rains. With abundant water in the veld, animal concentrations at the usual waterholes were low, but the scenery was alive with birdlife and rich, verdant beauty.
By 11:00, we reached Lower Sabie and headed to the Mugg & Bean for a well-earned brunch. Seated on the deck overlooking the Sabi River, we watched elephants and buffaloes in the distance while enjoying hearty burgers. It’s a view that could cure any weariness.
Back on the road, we followed the S21 – Nwatimwiri Road – where a passing game vehicle flagged us down. Another lion sighting: two lionesses resting under a bush just metres off the road. Incredible. Still, the theme of the day persisted – plenty of species, but few in large numbers. The rains had dispersed them.
Eventually, we reached Renosterkoppies Dam, where I was finally able to deliver what my wife had been waiting for – giraffes. Not many, but enough to admire. On the way to Afsaal, we had one last heart-stopping moment. Just 5km from the picnic site, traffic had ground to a halt. A leopard – majestic and motionless – lay barely off the road. We waited patiently as the crowd of vehicles thinned. And when it was our turn, we edged forward and drank in the sight, snapping a few photos.
Afsaal was our last long stop of the day. A quick break, some refreshments, and then back toward Pretoriuskop via the H2-2. The drive back was dominated by elephants… dozens of them, crossing the road with nonchalant grace. One or two came alarmingly close. I gripped the steering wheel a little tighter, wondering what Toyota South Africa would make of an elephant-shaped dent in their Fortuner.
But we made it through. And yes, we did see our lions again. The lovers were still out there, faithfully completing their cycle.
That evening, we celebrated with a classic bushveld braai: boere-KFC on the fire and some delicious braaibroodjies. Another early bedtime at 21:00.
Day 2 and departure: the final stretch
Our final full day began with high hopes. We’d seen four of the Big Five so far, but the elusive rhino remained.
Following much the same route as the day before, we ventured out again. Loops around Pretoriuskop gave way to the H1, before branching onto the S3 (Albasini Road), eventually linking to Doispan Road and back through to Skukuza. From there, we followed the familiar H4 along the Sabi River, then onto the S21 and S112, finally connecting to the H3 and H2-2 for the journey back. It was another long haul – 93km by our calculations – but every kilometre felt like a reward. Though we didn’t spot a rhino that day, the number and diversity of animals seen more than made up for it. A classic Kruger itinerary, full of life and colour.
On our departure morning, we packed up slowly. The Fortuner, once again, proved its worth, as its ample space and convenience made dismantling camp a breeze. While others fumbled with trailers or tents in disarray, we had everything neatly stowed and were ready to roll by mid-morning.
As we exited via Numbi Gate, I glanced in the rear-view mirror, watching the bush recede behind us. The Fortuner – dusty now and proudly bearing the scuffs of adventure – had been more than a vehicle. It had been a companion.
