My first overland journey was supposed to be all about the bush, wildlife, and family time around a campfire. While these aspects were indeed unforgettable, my first trip to the Okavango Delta in Botswana also taught me valuable lessons that every aspiring overlander should know.
A Dream Realised
Early on a Saturday morning, we set off on the adventure of a lifetime. For years, I had listened to my parents recount their bush trips, always saying, “One day…” That day finally arrived, and I was ready.
Our destination was Dijara, a small campsite that used to be near Mababe village, about 150km northeast of Maun. Bordering Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park, the campsite offered 13 pitches along the Khwai River, with no fences separating it from the wildlife. Our five-night stay brought nightly visits from hyenas and hippos, while elephants wandered through the camp during the day.
Setting Up Camp at Dijara
After a stopover in Maun, we arrived at Dijara on a Sunday and were greeted by the manager, who showed us to our site. The spacious campsite easily accommodated three tents and an off-road caravan. While basic, it had essential amenities, including ablution water sourced from the Khwai River. Fresh water is scarce in this region, so a warm shower is a luxury. We solved this by heating water in jerry cans near the fire—a simple trick that worked wonders.
Exploring the Khwai Development Trust
On the Monday, we visited the Khwai Development Trust, 10km from camp. This stunning area is home to abundant wildlife, including elephants, hippos, zebras, and lechwes. Following Tracks4Africa, we encountered a surprise water crossing. Conventional wisdom says to check water depth on foot, but with crocodiles and hippos around, that wasn’t an option! Trusting our maps, I engaged low-range and powered through—a thrilling moment that ended with my Hilux barely getting wet.
Savuti: A Bucket List Destination
The Tuesday was dedicated to Savuti, a legendary overlanding spot made famous by explorers like Andrew St. Pierre White. Entering Chobe National Park via Mababe Gate, we faced a choice: the flooded Marsh Road or the deep-sand Sand Ridge Road. Opting for the marsh route, we saw little game but enjoyed breathtaking landscapes. Later, we switched to the Sand Ridge Road—40km of demanding sand driving that required careful tyre deflation and constant focus. Despite the challenge, it was an experience worth every second.
Navigational Challenges and Changing Routes
On the Wednesday, what was meant to be a rest day turned into another adventure as we explored the Khwai region independently. This reinforced an important lesson: always update your Tracks4Africa maps. Seasonal water levels constantly change the routes, and we found ourselves navigating unmarked paths. One highlight was witnessing a family seeking shelter under their caravan awning as a massive bull elephant inspected their nearby tent—a heart-pounding moment!
Moremi Mishap: When Things Go Wrong
Thursday was dedicated to the Okavango Delta, with its famous wooden bridges and narrow papyrus-lined tracks. Water crossings were inevitable, and at Third Bridge, we faced one of our most daunting challenges yet. On our way back, my father’s Pajero hit a deep hippo channel mid-crossing, flooding the engine. Limping back to camp, the vehicle struggled, emitting ominous smoke.
At first, we hoped it was just water in the exhaust, but as we assessed the damage, we realised the situation was far worse. The Pajero had ingested water through the intake, leading to possible engine hydrolock. That night, we huddled around the campfire, discussing our limited options. Being in such a remote location, calling for a tow truck wasn’t an immediate solution, and recovery in Botswana is notoriously expensive.
The next morning, the Pajero refused to start. We tried draining water from the engine, checking the air filter, and even manually turning the crank to push out excess moisture, but nothing worked. We were desperate!
The next morning, to our relief, the Pajero started—but that relief was short-lived. Barely 2km down the road, it sputtered and died again, leaving us stranded just outside Mababe. What followed was a gruelling day of frustration and problem-solving as we scrambled to find a tow truck or low-bed recovery vehicle willing to come out to our remote location.
Hours passed with no progress. The heat was relentless, and each call we made seemed to hit a dead end. Just as we were beginning to lose hope, a massive Scania 4×4 recovery truck arrived like a mechanical saviour. The cost? A staggering P5000 to tow the Pajero back to Maun. With no other options, we paid the fee and watched as the beast of a truck hauled our wounded vehicle away.
Meanwhile, our caravan still needed to make it back. Thankfully, a friendly passer-by offered to tow it for us—at a price, of course. Another P500 later, the caravan was hitched up and on its way, towed back to Maun by a Good Samaritan with a business mindset.
By the time we reached Maun, exhaustion had set in. What should have been a day of adventure turned into an expensive logistical nightmare. Overlanding isn’t just about scenic routes and wildlife—it’s about tackling the unexpected, and this was a harsh lesson in the reality of remote travel.
